Quilting Process
- Press your quilt top and backing fabric flat.
- Remove any fraying threads from the back of your quilt top, especially if using light background fabrics that may show through. I clip any noticeable threads as I’m quilting, but I do not spend extra time reviewing the back of your quilt prior to loading it on the longarm.
- If you have seams along the perimeter of your quilt (for example, blocks without borders, or pieced borders), you can sew a victory lap! Read More Here. This prevents seams from opening up once they’re loaded on the longarm and subject to tension.
- Provide backing fabric that is 4 inches larger on all sides than your quilt top (8 inches of additional width and length) and batting that is at least 3 inches larger on all sides. This allows for plenty of room to load your quilt using red snappers. Extra width on the sides gives me space to use rulers right up to the edge of your quilt without the ruler base bumping into the side clamps.
If using extra wide backing fabrics, please trim backing down to be no larger than 10 inches larger than your quilt top. - If piecing backing fabric, please remove selvages from the seams. Why? The selvage edge is woven tighter than the rest of the fabric. When left on the backing, it will pull tighter than the surrounding fabric, causing puckers or ripples.
This depends on a few factors – how large your quilt is, which service you have chosen, and the level of detail in the chosen designs. Ruler quilting, quilting around applique, and stitching in the ditch are all very time consuming techniques that require a high degree of concentration and precision. I pride myself on quick turnarounds, but I am also a work-from-home mom to a toddler who limits the amount of time I can work on a quilt in any given session. Most custom quilts take me on average about 2-3 weeks to quilt once designs have been chosen and quilting begins. All-over designs take anywhere from a couple of days to a week, depending on the scale, complexity, and density.
Currently, I use a variety of 40 wt polyester threads, including Omni, Glide, and Innovatech on top and a thinner, 60 wt Bottom Line or Glide in the bobbin. Each brand has their own strengths and weaknesses, which I keep in mind while selecting threads for your quilt. If you have preferences for fiber content, weight, or sheen, please let me know. Glide has the highest luster, while Omni has a matte finish. Both brands come in a large variety of colors that can be matched to your quilt top. In most cases, I match the bobbin thread to the top thread.
Whenever I begin quilting in a new area or break thread, I take several small stitches in place and trim the thread tails flush with the quilt. This is how I have always dealt with thread tails on my own quilts, which have seen a lot of washing and use. I use a very small stitch length (12 per inch) which helps ensure the quilting is durable, tidy, and beautiful. If you prefer to knot and bury threads, please let me know so I can leave the thread tails for you to do so.
I currently own an 18″ Innova Classic longarm on a 10 foot frame with lightning stitch regulation. It is very well suited for my detailed custom quilting. I am unable to quilt King size quilts due to the size of my frame, but I can quilt most other sizes. I always quilt in stitch regulated mode because lightning stitch always gives me perfect, tiny, tidy stitches.
Quilt Drop-offs and Shipping
Yes! I arrange local drop-offs and pickups on a case-by-case basis. Be sure to specify in your consultation forms if you would like to meet locally so we can arrange a date and time. Because I have a toddler at home, I’m limited to meeting you either in Manassas or in my home quilting studio.
USPS Priority Mail, UPS, or FedEx are all great ways to ship your quilts to me! When mailing your quilt tops, please be sure to pay for tracking. Requiring a signature is also a great added safety measure. When packaging, it’s always a good idea to seal your quilt top in a plastic bag to protect your hard work in case the outer packaging gets wet or damaged – clear ziplocks are best! Be sure to include your return address and my mailing address on a piece of paper inside in case the outer address label is damaged or illegible. Please do not send me quilts in scented trash bags, as I am sensitive to perfumes and work in close quarters with your quilts. Thank you!
*Please ship quilt tops in boxes or cardboard envelopes, as poly mailers are very easily damaged in transit.*
When your quilt is complete, I seal it up (along with any excess backing fabric or batting that had to be trimmed off) in a plastic bag before it is packed into a box. I do not use poly mailers – the savings in shipping costs is not worth the potential damage that could happen to your precious quilt while in transit. I use Pirate Ship to find the best possible rates from USPS, UPS, and FedEx. If you have a preference for delivery service, please be sure to let me know. I always purchase tracking, additional insurance, and signature delivery confirmation. This is both to protect my business from liability and to ensure your quilt is treated with extra care and attention from delivery drivers.